A new wave of creative directors
have reinvented legacy labels,
not only through adopting new
aesthetic philosophies, but also
by embracing cultural shifts
toward representation and
equality – while also boosting
profits. Here we look at three
of the biggest designer shake
ups to hit the runway
Back to the classics for Zegna
What does Gildo Zegna know about suits? Everything, actually. Zegna – yes, of that Zegna – currently serves as chief executive by his grandfather in 1910. It’s a role that demands keeping the heritage of the luxury menswear mini empire alive while steering it forward in the digitally focused, buy-now climate in which the fashion world exists. Enter Mr Porter. Zegna the man has teamed Zegna the brand up with the site – the only purely digital operation they’ve sold to – to bring the label’s wares to a new global audience. It’s just one initiative that lays the groundwork for Zegna’s latest incarnation, one that’s being helmed by recently departed Berluti designer Alessandro Sartori. We sat down with the wellrespected Zegna to pick his brain on all things tailoring, including the state of the suit, what it means to move menswear in the digital space, and what Sartori will have in store (literally) for the brand this year.
XY: It seems as though people are constantly calling for the death of the suit, but we’d argue the suit feels more vital than ever. From your side of the aisle, what do you think about the suit’s relevance today?
Gildo Zegna: not that the suit is back. What we are selling right now is either more sports jackets or casual jackets. He wants to wear the jacket in a more casual way, as a piece of sportswear. So I think today the jacket has become a part of luxury sportswear, like an accessory.
XY: What are challenges for a luxury brand like yours to carve out an identity in a now-crowded digital space?
GZ: move quicker. I think that you cannot go creating collections by more seasons. In Italy, in a matter of a week, we had a 20-degree hot summer to almost cold winter. When you see this, can you imagine what it means for the stock of a shop? So we have to forget about the seasons in terms of collection, and we have to create collections by project. XY: Does that mean you’re abandoning the traditional runway-show calendar? GZ: Not at all. But that’s not enough any longer. Each of us has to create this own type of buy-now, wearnow model and communicate that in a comprehensive way so that the be creativity and a novelty to it. XY: Can you share anything about Alessandro Sartori’s vision for the house?
GZ: If there is one creative person who is very proud of our DNA, it is dynamic. I think it will become more contemporary, but at the same time respecting the past. I think that he’s so creative that he can bring change by styling or highlighting items that have been with us for a while that have not been highlighted enough. He’s starting with textiles to make the style but innovation. He’s also bringing a new know-how to our leather and accessories lines. XY: How would you say this di¬ers from Stefano Pilati’s vision? GZ: I don’t like to compare the two. Stefano served one period, and artisanal direction is what Zegna is all about. We are limited-edition, we are exclusive.