FALL/WINTER 2015-16 MENSWEAR

FASHION XY
VALENTINO, HENRIK VIBSKOV, CLIMBER B.C, JULIUS, BURBERRY PRORSUM
 
 
VALENTINO
 
Luxury label Valentino also was among the fashion houses which presented their latest collections during the Paris men's fashion week Fall-Winter 2015/2016. Brand's designers and Creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli showed images drawn from the heydays of the Ballets Russes in Paris and the Beat generation in San Francisco, both of them moments when poets, painters, and wild-eyed dreamers came together to create something new.
 
 
Through the miracle of the Interweb, the designers had found a young Melbourne-  based artist named Esther Stewart. Her geometric color-blocked paintings became the inspiration for some of the clothes and all of the carpets  that lined the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, where the show was held. "Geometry is a new form of decoration", said Piccioli. It certainly contributed to the strongest looks in this collection.
 
The Russian movement's famed founder Sergei Diaghilev worked with the greatest artists of the time, including Pablo Picasso, to create incredible costumes and sets. And in this menswear show, the Italian house drew on the strong, color-rich geometry of these artistic collaborations &mdash with a dash of the Sixties.
 
Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli produced an angular, often sharp, and pattern-rich  display &mdash with myriad references including Scottish tartan and the now-signature militaristic camouflage.
 
 
There were some enviable  looks: like the luxuriant green and brown shot silken fitted suits, or the oversize statement coats. Geometric patterns on sweaters and in fastidiously detailed coats, elsewhere, came across sometimes as Sixties, and, elsewhere, as almost Balkan. It further explored the current mania for ethnic-looking motifs.
 
Bold colors &mdash mid-blues, golden brown and burgundy &mdash set the patterns alight. Chiuri and Piccioli after a member of the menswear team at Valentino saw review of her 2013 exhibition &ldquoMakin&rsquo Plans&rdquo at Melbourne gallery Utopian Slumps.
 
According to Valentino, Chiuri and Piccioli were   inspired by &ldquoMoments of Non-Conformist Artistic Movements&rdquo for their Fall/Winter 2015-2016     menswear collection, taking as their starting point the experimental creativity of the Ballets Russes of the 1920s.
 
The two creative directors translated Stewart&rsquos work from the surface, incorporating elements of her geometric paintings into the structure and construction of the clothes. &ldquoThe modernist urgency and the radicalism of the color field in the Sixties were, through Futurism and Cubism, an ideal consequence that is showcased in today&rsquos geometric motifs of Australian artist Esther Stewart,&rdquo stated the Valentino press release.
 
&ldquoEsther Stewart&rsquos compositions trigger a sequence of micro and macro geometric patterns transformed into patchwork, prints and intarsia: in double cashmere for Couture coats and through the textures of Shetland wool sweaters.&rdquo
 
 
 
HENRIK VIBSKOV
 
The name Henrik Vibskov is most commonly associated not only with a fashion label, but a multitude of twisted yet tantalising universes created in relation to each collection. &ldquoThe Transparent Tongue&ldquo, &ldquoThe Spaghetti Handjob&ldquo and &ldquoThe Shrink Wrap Spectacular&ldquo are just a few titles of shows Henrik Vibskov has produced lately, each title referring to a different but equally mesmerising world and set of logic. As a fashion designer Henrik Vibskov has produced over 26 mens (and later also women&rsquos) collections since he graduated from Central St. Martins in 2001, and as a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine he is currently the only Scandinavian designer on the official show schedule of the Paris Mens Fashion Week, which he has been since January 2003.
 
 
Since the beginning of his career Henrik has frequently been invited to and participated in festivals, contests and talks such as the Hyères Festival in 2003 & 2004, the Expo 2005 in Japan, the Noovo Festival 2007 in Santiago de Compostela, the LungA Art Festival in Iceland in 2009 & 2010, the Notch Festival in Beijing in 2009 and the Gwangju Design Biennale in South Korea in 2011. Throughout his career Henrik&rsquos designs have won him prizes such as the Becks Student Future Prize 2000, New Name of the Year 2003, the Danish Design Council Award 2007, Brand of the Year DANSK Fashion Awards 2008, an award from the Danish Arts Foundation in 2009, the 2011 Söderberg prize, the highest value design  prize in the world, as well as the Jury Prize at the   Danish Fashion Awards in 2012.
 
Between designing new collections biannually and creating the universes surrounding them, Henrik keeps himself occupied as drummer with his own project Mountain Yorokobu, signed to Fake Diamond Records, and  also toured with Trentemøller for 6 years.
 
Henrik Vibskov has exhibitited at PS1 &ndash MoMA in New York, Palais de Tokyo in Paris, ICA in London, Zeeuws Museum in Holland, Kiyomizu-Dera Temple in Kyoto, Japan, Wilhelm Wagendfeld Haus in Bremen, NAI Nederlands Architectuur Instituut in Rotterdam, Holland, The Textile Museum, Washington, USA , just to name a few. He has also produced several large scale  solo exhibitions at museums and galleries, including the Rohsska museum in Gothenburg 2011, his &ldquoNeck Plus Ultra&rdquo exhibition which was shown at Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Gammel Strand in Copenhagen, and most recently a huge retrospective of his work at Designmuseo Helsinki in Finland.
 
 
Together with visual artist Andreas Emenius he has created an ongoing art project called &lsquoThe Circular Series&rsquo, which they begun to work on in 2009. Like in their earlier collaboration &lsquoThe Fringe Projects&rsquo, in this project the circle is used as a clarifier, or visual glue, linking all the projects to the same universe. Henrik has also designed costumes for numerous operas and performances including collaborations with Hotel Pro Forma, the Oslo Opera house and Brussels Opera house.
 
Artists and musicians like M.I.A., Björk, The Arctic Monkeys, Sigur Ros, Franz Ferdinand, Lou Reed, LCD Soundsystem or Devendra Banhart have been spotted in Henrik Vibskov&rsquos designs. The collections are sold through thoroughly selected shops across the globe and his own Henrik Vibskov stores in Copenhagen and New York.
 
Henrik Vibskov is currently Professor at DSKD and has frequently given lectures and been a jury member at institutions such as Central Saint   Martins in London, the IED in Madrid and the Antwerp Royal Acadamy of  Fine Art amongst others. Henrik has published four books, including a 2012 monograph of his work to date (published by Gestalten).
 
At the crossroads of performance art  and conceptual fashion lies the work of Henrik Vibskov. The inventive Dane doesn't seem to lack ideas when it   comes to enhancing his runway shows with outlandish installations. This  season, a 20-meter enclosure was   hidden from view by maroon and pink curtains as guests took their places around it, guided by attendants in white blouses with &ldquoTeam Vibs&rdquo emblazoned on the back. As the drapes were drawn, four hundred moving hands started a hypnotic ballet, moving up and down against pink clad shapes &mdash vocalists providing the human accompaniment to the music &mdash laying on gurneys, for  what the avant-garde designer coined  to be the Messy Massage Class.
 
Models took to the runway that snaked around this bizarre massage parlor, clad in knits and tailored outerwear bedecked in sound waves or hand motifs. A few long skirts made for over-easy womenswear proposals. The top halves displayed some interesting tailoring, while the bottom halves were described as typically Vibskov, &ldquocropped, low crotched and some very wide.&rdquo Some outstanding items included a thin red and white knit, and tailored jackets, always a high point of any Vibskovian collection. The ensemble had a peculiar charm, and will no doubt resonate with anyone shopping for something outside the beaten track. But the disconnect between the models and the art made for a distraction rather than a show, and dissipated that old Vibskov magic.
 
 
 
CLIMBER B.C
 
EXPERIENTIAL MASTERY & DAZZLING COLOURS
 
This seasons&rsquos CLIMBER B.C. collection proudly presents the brand&rsquos penchant for attention to detail. CLIMBER B.C., a label known for constantly producing new and improved designs that are both chic and comfortable has once again put out a collection of designs with their own unique style forged out of a purposeful selection of colors, forms and materials. With an elite, high class, sophisticated and unique aesthetic, fans of the brand get an immeasurable amount of pleasure from a higher quality look.
 
 
The brand&rsquos neo-classical style, most suited to the working world, shows something unique amongst the world&rsquos leader male clothing brands in that CLIMBER B.C. cuts are imbibed with the brand&rsquos  identity and are available in  more varieties of colors and shades. By far the best part of the company is the special formula it uses to create a high quality woolen surface texture on its items, perfect for fit and slim cut jacket and pant combinations that pair up perfectly, and are available with lines, architectural geometric patterns and light tartan features that appear formal but leisurely. A white thin-collar armur shirt patterned with straight and sharp lines and striking trousers. Twill, filafil, melange,   mixed material, cotton and woolen shirts are all available in this winter collection expressing various types of  chic in their textures and cuts.
 
The trousers are part of the slim fit cut collection. Single and double-button monopeto hooded jackets are available in gray, navy and black-brown. To finish off the outfit, special boots cut in designer leather look better still with matching belt and give the whole combination an extra boost in class. Wool and microfiber textured trench coat, overcoat and reefer jackets make great outdoor wear a la the classical bohemian poets of a century ago. This is sure to be a look that makes waves this season.
 
In line with Bukowski&rsquos ALL THE WAY theme, experimentation is the name of the game in this collection, showing in designs with varying orientations that have a strong impression. Bukowski&rsquos words have been a massive source of inspiration, with color selection, material and design applications and &ndash particularly this season - print and graphic designs coming to the fore in an experimental fashion. Natural materials and toning are contrasted with synthetic fibers and textures. Dark shades like chocolate-brown, carbon and coal black, fuchsia, navy and charcoal are all included in various combinations.
 
 
While CLIMBER B.C. has some sophisticated and high class outfits for the world of work, the items found in the CLIMBER B.C. JEANS range that shows off the season&rsquos chicest and exclusive casual denim wear. With a double sided indigo base, special homogenous wash and various local effects, the range includes varieties in dark navy, lead black and dark brown, with a mix of materials including cotton and wool and lycra selections in petrol and greenish indigo in carefully tailored forms. The jeans are ornamented with metal details and cut with geometric attention to detail this season. The velvet pants, when paired with a thick cardigan and designs from the knitwear and weekend wear groups emanate with a unique casual chic that retains the essential countryside, neo-folk, smart casual style. In short, CLIMBER B.C., gives a touch of class to your look in time for the winter season.
 
 
 
JULIUS
 
Julius is a Japanese fashion label run and designed by Tatsuro Horikawa. The label focuses on presenting a wide array of gothic inspired clothing, utilizing the color black extensively to explore its meaning in both Avant Garde, spiritual, and religious aspects of the designer&rsquos life. Started as a primarily art related project, Julius has surpassed Horikawa's original label focus in Nuke, presenting in the Tokyo Collection annually since 2004 and growing to a cult status in both Japan and abroad.
 
 
Designer Tatsuro Horikawa started his own design company in 1996 with Third Stone Co. Ltd, followed the following   year by his first fashion label, Nuke. The label was a large success but lasted only until   his next major project was undertaken in Julius, started in 2001 as an art project to present audio and video presentations for Spring/Summer collections and art shows. The label grew from there becoming a full fledged fashion project that coincides with artistic   endeavors from Horikawa.
 
The first presentation of clothing and audio/video projects from Julius occurred in 2004 with the Spring/Summer collection at  the Tokyo Collection. A follow up show occurred at  the Modern Art Gallery as well with paintings and abstract art pieces that inspired his clothing line.
 
Tatsuro Horikawa has long been known for his fusion of art and fashion into singular entities, utilizing a  similar philosophy for both aspects of his career. He has long stated that &ldquoa collection is created when  different elements are accumulated to such a point    that they form into one exceptional vision or idea&rdquo and the result has been present in his work with elements including architecture, music, art, sound, ambience, travel,   and emotion. The goal then, according to Horikawa is to contribute to the lifestyle of the individual rather than just the wardrobe.
 
 
Black is the base for all  creations in the Julius line,     and most clothing does not branch out much further. The idea of madness and grief that black symbolizes often appears in Horikawa&rsquos work in the form of drooping strap, narrow   legged pants, and heavy boots. The collections take their cues from recent developments in goth fashion from the likes of h.NAOTO but with more mature, upscale clothing as its base, including trenchcoats, tuxedo jackets, and slacks.
 
Because Julius began as an art project, the clothing is a secondary aspect, changing annually to reflect the direction in which Horikawa takes the label. His work utilizes a great deal of underground imagery and    artistic expressions with heavy black leather as a  common material.
 
 
 
BURBERRY PRORSUM
 
A look that gives off something different and features special classical touches. An elite quality that carries a foreboding, inimitable chic &ndash not only desirable, but literally pleasurable to wear. The colors of the season and the latest trends combine with classic style essentials in a way rarely seen before.
 
 
It might be shocking mix, but instead of wanting to steer clear the viewer is drawn to becoming a wearer &ndash the outfits inspire possession. Playful with color and design, the items exhibit masculinity in an innovative way. Feminine and cultural details are complimented by a more plain masculine overtone without losing a sense of boho chic, sophistication and leisure &ndash all aspects which combine for an eye-catching look of the Burberry Prorsum collection.
 
CLASSICALLY BOHEMIAN
The combinations are created with a drastic focus on the  visual, with the choice of colors contributing most to the artistic, bohemian element.  Yet Burberry Prorsum doesn&rsquot neglect the classic   details. The floral prints are joined with quality     tailoring using special stitch work. This season the   brand has a new approach to getting the best aesthetic by adding to classic men&rsquos style.
 
Felt-effect wool and cashmere textures, camouflage  and special effect prints and inky, dark blue and purple tones are the key to the collection. The color scale is a smattering of colors and shades from touches of purple, coral, fuchsia to turquoise joined with various shades of green, deep navy, black and reddish-brown &ndash all creating a stunning harmony. The range also includes specially designed coats and jackets. Floral prints certainly make an impression  in jacket designs and specially designed, artistic characteristics, images and symbols, with unique form in the sleeves and patch pocket works. Inspired by the works of Durham, the  jackets are tailored to slim fit and are decorated  with colorful floral prints and feature special hard-sewn elements.
 
BONDED SUEDE CABAN
The coats and caban jackets feature deep pockets and reglan seamed sleeve and are available in dark green and other shades on the color scheme of the season. A &lsquoheritage&rsquo look is what ties this piece together, but the loud floral prints and hand-stitched features add a modern twist to classic details. The result is the standard plain and comfortable, yet stylish and unique items one expects from our team of designers with every range.
 
Burberry Prorsum presents a long, shaggy winter wardrobe for those who value texture as much as color and form. Green, especially in natural tones and shades, is a basis for these decorative and indoor-wear items.
 
 
SHEARLING CHESTREFIELD
Soft, furry textured caban jackets and over coats, deep/flap pockts make for ideal,  warm and comfortable winter items. Jam-packed with detail and *british tailoring reference, these jackets offer a trendy modern spin on English aristocratic clothing.
 
BOMBER JACKET
Special woolen bomber jacket and cardigan combinations with leather patches and low shoulder cuts in innovative new structures and forms. Many of the jackets and coats feature leather sleeves and thick, double-layered wool. The items favor velvet and cord work for warmth and achieve a bohemian look when combined with colorful cardigan  and leather details. Burberry Prorsum features a predominance in particular details and visual effects in every collection, making it one of the hottest, most eye-catching ranges in male fashion.
 
Natural, standard cotton textures are given a boost when combined metallic and reflective surfaces. The range&rsquos slim fit jackets are eclectic but possess a perfect street style to be worn on all occasions.
 
Scottish&ndashwoven. Scottish weaves in cashmere are a special addition to the season and are available in a range of colors and designer cuts.
 
Poncho. Cut in cashmere and goat&rsquos wool, these plain ponchos are a classic and nostalgic item for the 2016 winter season, and set this year&rsquos Burberry Prorsum apart. The special jacket-pant combinations feature bold tones and are not just warm but point to a wearer that appreciates bohemian style.
 
Suede trenchcoat. The double breasted, double-button trench coat with added belt is designed to have a modern flair, with slim-fit features, sophisticated style, chic and bohemian features. The Burberry Prorsum&rsquos cashmere scarves and shawls are the perfect accessory to this essential outdoor winter item.