Thom Browne






American designer Thom Browne left audiences and fans gob smacked at this year&rsquos Paris and New York Fashion Weeks with an unforgettable stage show to display his new range. With the strength and successful execution of his concept he turned the face of the fashion world towards the islands of Japan. Viewers were indulged not just with the kimono designs displayed by the models, but also a glimpse into their lives. The &ldquoMinka House&rdquo and an on-stage Japanese village set the scene ready for the first catwalk items, inviting the audience into a time machine to transport them to another time and place.


After being taken back to the unique, calming scene of traditional Japanese rural life, the audience was then suddenly thrown back into the present with modern male jackets, trousers and tailored suits, and in the final scene as the models in kimonos got onto the stage one by one the traditional robes were thrown off to reveal suit and jacket designs showing a clever contrast and ingenuity in design. The stalk contradictions made for a show that ensured we would never forget what we would be appropriating.

The designer has a penchant for monochromatic bases with thin chalky stripes, cut in wool and jacquard fabrics with shantung and irregular stitching. The color scheme revolves around a simple palette of grey, beige and other light tones. Short trousers, in wide and narrow patchwork forms, monopeto jackets and are designed with ties and accessories in matching texture and form.


The modern jacket and pant suits still carry the features of the traditional kimono designs, showing the full extent of the artistry poured into Thom Browne&rsquos handcrafted 2016 summer collection. It is this artistic relationship between the back and foreground that has left an indelible mark on the season. 

Soft greys and beiges form the basis of an illustrious narrative patterns. The colorless application of traditional designs and the hand-stitched techniques employed for the weaving of long admired Japanese emblems like floral designs, dragons and Mount Fuji into patchworks, as well as dark black ink contours, chrysanthemums, and Japanese garden flowers and trees in  a basic monochromatic design, contrasts with their colorful origins and gives every item in the collection its own individual narrative.

Browne&rsquos show was even more effective thanks to the choice selection of an emotive piece of background music composed by Ennio Morricone. The models were able to walk slowly and steadily in time to the piece, giving time for the audience to admire the precision gone into the design and craft of every item.


Thom Browne certainly didn&rsquot disappoint, displaying a stunning clothing collection this season, with a showcase that put theatrics at the core. Under his wing, the podium emanated with harmony to the highest degree in every way.